It takes a certain knowledge and an understanding to read the ocean and the waves and to be comfortable with that. It’s like getting a submission for the first time, like the most amazing submission ever, It’s an art form just like martial arts, There’s a technique you have to master and get better and better at. You’ll either get a one round submission or go through a 25 minute war. Natures just angry and she’s just throwing one wave after another, and you almost just want to give up, you almost want to turn around and paddle back into the beach but something keeps driving you and you just want to get under every wave. You know, you want to beat it.
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